Doing the base separately is a great time saver. Step 4 – BaseĪll our Ultramarine needs now is a base. Althought traditional Ultramarines’ are red, we painted our bright green with Moot Green and a Flash Gitz Yellow highlight. Lenses, gems, lights, and power weapons are the perfect place for this. We very well could be, but the result would be a little bit too drab all over. Step 3 – Glowĭon’t be fooled by the varnish, we are not done yet. Once that’s done and dry (can’t stress how important it is to wait until the wash is fully dry) we spray the models with matte varnish. It is not much longer, but you get a lot more control over how much Quickshade is on your Ultramarines. I prefer to paint the Quickshade on rather than dip the model. We shade the entire model with your brown mixture of preference.
40K QUICKSHADE FULL
The end results are very similar, the Quickshade works the best over a large quantity of models, ideal if you are doing a full army in one sitting. You have 2 options here, either Agrax Earthshade or The Army Painter’s Quick shade strong tone. Once every part of the mini is in the appropriate base coat, we are ready to shade. The only parts we are not painting up to this point are gems, lenses and otherwise glowing stuff, like plasmas or power weapons. This is done because of the shading, and we can work on bringing out the pure white look at a later stage. The seal part of purity seals and some details, like the sergeants’ helmets are painted Mephiston Red.Įverything that should be white is instead painted Ulthuan Grey. The Army Painter Skeleton Bone is a lighter alternative. I like that bone color because of how well it covers, but it is on the darker side. Purity Seals and the likes are painted Zandri Dust. We don’t want pure black for this because our plan is to shade the entire model, and that doesn’t work with black. With the coloured Quickshade Washes you will get not only great shading, but also the chance of colour toning your miniatures for that very special. We paint the weapons and most of the accessories like grenades and chains with it.įor the armor joints, we use Dark Reaper or any off-black. Silver is Leadbelcher, but really any silver you fancy will work. It looks a little weird, but don’t worry, it will work out later. Pouches and belts are painted Skrag Brown. Retributor Gold is also very nice, if you want a brighter gold result. Our color choice is based mostly on ones that cover well in a single coat if possible.įor the blue, we are using The Army Painter’s Ultramarines, because it is available in a shaker can, which saves an insane amount of time over a large quantity of models. Unlike more classic painting tutorials, our first order of business is to get one solid base coat on every surface. Aim to make your whole units cohesive and let volume will do the heavy lifting. Strength in numbers, Quantity is a Quality its own… no matter your idiom of choice, this is the true strength of this technique.ĭon’t get too derailed in every little detail of every miniature. Combining some speed painting techniques and our favorite bases, this is a surefire way to get your 40k Ultramarines’ army fully painted in no time.
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